Fuel Pump Driver Module Symptoms
Last week I left work car wouldn't start, weird hunch so I reset the inertia switch, bingo car started right up, with CEL on, a few days later the CEL cleared itself, I tho kool but weird, a few days after that went to start up and nothing it just turns over and CEL is back on, I had a similar issue last year and I ended up buying a Fuel Pump Driver Module off a Junkyard, change it and no problems till know I'm heading home now I'll give ya tha exact year/Month it was made. Any help would be awesome thank u.
Stun, looking at the diagrams, other than the location of a fuse, it appears the rest of the wiring is the same. So, lets see where we go from there. First, check to make sure that you have have power to the fuel pump by checking fuse F17 (post early 2004) or fuse F81 (pre early 2004).
You can verify that you don't have a wiring problem by verifying you have 12 VDC to pin 9 of the plug on the fuel pump control module. From there, install a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail under the hood. You will also want to have a multimeter connected to the fuel pump (pins 10 and 3 of the plug on the module. What you should see is that when you turn the key from Off to the RUN position (don't start the car), you should see 12 VDC appear on the multimeter for a few seconds until the pressure is built up to 40-50 psi and then the voltage will drop off. If you don't see the pressure build up and no voltage on the multiemter, then we are looking at a bad fuel pump module.
If the PCM or a defective fuel pump driver module are directing full battery voltage to the pump 100% of the time, this could account for the shorter-than-normal pump life for the replacement pumps. There's nowhere for the extra volume of unneeded fuel to go in the returnless system.
Ford F150 Fuel Pump Driver Module Symptoms
If you get voltage but no pressure build up, then it is a bad fuel pump. If you are suspecting a bad module, first, do a check of the inertia switch.
What you need to do is to access the inertia switch and you will see 3 wires going to it. You are after the green/red wire (pin 2 on the switch). You should see 0 VDC on it. If you see 12 VDC, then that is a sign that the inertia switch has been activated and it is sending a signal to the instrument cluster to shut the car down (ie, kill the fuel pump). Unfortunately, there is nothing on the instrument cluster that I see that would tell you the inertia switch has been triggered. Hope this helps you get going in the right direction. Stun, it can be 2 things that I can think of.
You have a break in the bus bar that runs inside of the fuse box. Highly unlikely, but it is possible. The more likely thing is that the bus bar has a bunch of male posts on it and then there is a female to female connector that the fuse then plugs into. This for some reason is not making contact and leading to the no power condition. Unfortunately, your options are fairly limited.
You can try putting a screw driver into the fuse slot (make sure you protect any exposed metal when you do this) and then give the slot a slight twist. This will force things to make contact. Sometimes it works, some times it don't. The other option is to open up the fuse box and re-bend the tabs on the female to female connector. This can be done once the connector is out of the fuse box using a small screw driver (aka, jeweler's screwdriver). Unfortunately, to get to the connector, you have to dismantle the complete fuse box which you will find out is quite a joy/job. Stun, looking at the diagrams, other than the location of a fuse, it appears the rest of the wiring is the same.
So, lets see where we go from there. First, check to make sure that you have have power to the fuel pump by checking fuse F17 (post early 2004) or fuse F81 (pre early 2004). You can verify that you don't have a wiring problem by verifying you have 12 VDC to pin 9 of the plug on the fuel pump control module. From there, install a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail under the hood.
You will also want to have a multimeter connected to the fuel pump (pins 10 and 3 of the plug on the module. What you should see is that when you turn the key from Off to the RUN position (don't start the car), you should see 12 VDC appear on the multimeter for a few seconds until the pressure is built up to 40-50 psi and then the voltage will drop off. If you don't see the pressure build up and no voltage on the multiemter, then we are looking at a bad fuel pump module. If you get voltage but no pressure build up, then it is a bad fuel pump. If you are suspecting a bad module, first, do a check of the inertia switch. What you need to do is to access the inertia switch and you will see 3 wires going to it.
You are after the green/red wire (pin 2 on the switch). You should see 0 VDC on it. If you see 12 VDC, then that is a sign that the inertia switch has been activated and it is sending a signal to the instrument cluster to shut the car down (ie, kill the fuel pump). Unfortunately, there is nothing on the instrument cluster that I see that would tell you the inertia switch has been triggered. Hope this helps you get going in the right direction.
If u have 12 volts on pin 2, how do u clear it? Robdawg71, if you disconnect the switch from the inertia switch and you still have power on the inertia switch itself, then you have a definite wiring problem and something is making contact where it shouldn't. If you measure the plug itself, you should only have 12 VDC on 1 pin of the possible 3 pins on the plug and then you should only have 12 VDC there if you have the key in the RUN position. If you turn it out of the RUN position, all 3 pins should be dead. Again, if you are finding voltage with the key not in the RUN position on any of the 3 pins in the plug, you have a wiring problem.
We would need to figure out where that voltage is coming from. As for the code that you have, that is what is causing the trouble light. If you can get the code(s) read and put them here, this might help me narrow down where the problem lies. Robdawg71, if you disconnect the switch from the inertia switch and you still have power on the inertia switch itself, then you have a definite wiring problem and something is making contact where it shouldn't. If you measure the plug itself, you should only have 12 VDC on 1 pin of the possible 3 pins on the plug and then you should only have 12 VDC there if you have the key in the RUN position. If you turn it out of the RUN position, all 3 pins should be dead.
2009 F150 Fuel Pump Driver Module Problems
Again, if you are finding voltage with the key not in the RUN position on any of the 3 pins in the plug, you have a wiring problem. We would need to figure out where that voltage is coming from. As for the code that you have, that is what is causing the trouble light. If you can get the code(s) read and put them here, this might help me narrow down where the problem lies. Robdawg71, if you disconnect the switch from the inertia switch and you still have power on the inertia switch itself, then you have a definite wiring problem and something is making contact where it shouldn't.
If you measure the plug itself, you should only have 12 VDC on 1 pin of the possible 3 pins on the plug and then you should only have 12 VDC there if you have the key in the RUN position. If you turn it out of the RUN position, all 3 pins should be dead. Again, if you are finding voltage with the key not in the RUN position on any of the 3 pins in the plug, you have a wiring problem. We would need to figure out where that voltage is coming from. As for the code that you have, that is what is causing the trouble light.
If you can get the code(s) read and put them here, this might help me narrow down where the problem lies.
It's a driveability problem, it's fully tune. No problems till this weekend, driving in 4th and 5th gear the car lean's right pass 17.1 a/f ratio on my wideband.
And you can feel it, almost starving for fuel. If the fuel pressure sensor was bad, there would be a code.
If the inersha switch (don't mind the bad spelling) it would have no fuel pressure. If the the fpdm was bad, same thing. So this points me to a bad fuel pump, or a pump on it's way out. But the car only has 30,000 miles. Fuel pressure checked in at, and 38 with the vacuum off. Any help guys?